Pruning Shrubs 101
Can you believe this winter? It has been so mild that I have been itching to get into the garden. How about you? Well as I was driving today I had my first sign that I could get started in the garden. The sign? An orchard had workers out pruning the fruit trees. Late winter and early spring are a good time to prune trees and summer-blooming shrubs. Please do not prune the spring-blooming shrubs, such as lilacs, they have already set their flowers and if you prune them you will not get blooms. Prune these as soon as they are done blooming or cut plenty of blooming branches to fill vases in the house. Also leave butterfly bushes and roses until the leaf buds are showing to see how damaging the winter was to them.
Here are my Summer-sweet Shrubs before pruned.
They only tools you need are a good pair of work gloves, high-quality pruning shears and a hack saw. The reason I say high-quality pruning is that I have tried cutting thicker branches with inexpensive pruners and they broke apart with higher quality pruners they just stop cutting and stick in the branch. They still work great after you pry them from the branch. That’s the cue to go to a hack saw. Now I must confess I purchased a battery powered Hackzall from True Value Hardware. This will allow me to prune an over-sized burning bush in my backyard. This bush has one stem that is at least 6 inches across. I can not wait to try my new saw out.
The basic reasons to prune are plant health, size control and entice blooming. I took the Master Gardening program offered by the Montcalm County Extension Office back in the 1990’s and learned a few tricks of pruning.
- Prune the 3 D’s – dead, damaged and diseased. They need to be taken out first. Then step back and look at the plant.
- Does the plant just need pruning to encourage flowers? This is often the case for hydrangeas that bloom on new wood (Paniculates (Hydrangea paniculates), Endless Summer Series (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’) and ‘Annabelle’ (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’). Cutting it back will help the plant produce more stems which means more flowers. Prune each stem back approximately 6 – 8 inches but not to the ground just the stem ends. If you trim them back to far the stems will not be strong enough to hold the blooms. Do not prune old-wood hydrangeas like Mopheads (Hydrangea macrophylla), Lace caps ( Hydrangea macrophylla) and Oak leaf (Hydrangea quercifolia) hydrangeas because they have already set this summers blooms.
- Next, is the plant over-sized or misshapen? I consider pruning these shrubs a three year process. This is to encourage new growth and not shock the plant. The first year trim 1/3 of the plant. Cut these branches to the main trunk or to the ground being careful not to go below the ‘branch collar’, this is the wrinkled area of the trunk. It is good to start with the thickest branches. Then next year trim out another 1/3 of the branches being careful of the new growth. Then the final third year trim the whole shrub down a 1/3 of its size. This encourages new growth and revival.
Pruning now is a good time for the shrubs since they are still in winter’s sleep. It is very stressful on them once they start the sap flowing and leaves budding. This can also leave them open to more bugs and diseases. Plus for me it feels good to get out in the garden once again. I hope this helps. If you have any questions call our local garden supply stores, Montcalm County Extension office or for bigger help tree service companies. Another good source is a PDF handout from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Office (www.durham.ces.ncsu.edu or 919.560.0525) called Pruning Basics. Happy gardening!
Here are my Summer-sweet Shrubs pruned.
















